Mine didn't come out so good! Unfortunately, I chose a piece of industrial grade coax that didn't cooperate. Under the braid was a foil shield that was fused to the foam core. The core wire was fused to the foam! It must have been heated to make all the components solid. I actually cut all the pieces and stripped away the foil (my fingertips are still sore), but when I was pushing the radials in, two of the core wires snapped (I guess it was steel). And that took me over an hour. I think this is very doable with the right coax. I may try again with some cheap stuff.
Thanks! That is exactly how I was doing it. Two of the radials snapped (the core wire) when I was bending them down. They actually made a snap sound when they broke, like the wire wasn't flexible!Please see my comments on photo of your Easy Spider below.
Use cable tie or wrap to secure push pins in position while radials are still horizontal, then bend the radial down another 45 degrees.
Also see the 5 construction steps I followed in my post "15 minutes Spider"
View attachment 1781
Just about all the changes you need are in config.js. If you really want to jazz up your dump1090-mut page, get a copy of @xforce30164's configuration. To get you started I'm attaching my config.js as config.txt. Especially not the part about "site circles". Those are your range rings.Okay guys, I have installed mutability and it works okay on my suspected faulty pi2 (I wont hold my breath as i know it (pi) will fall over, maybe after 1 hr maybe 1 day but it will thats for sure.
Can some kind soul point me towards making more range rings for mut and any other basic enhancements and i will look in the collectd/graphs stuff which is in a seperate thread.
Trying to find old posts that were mixed up in antennas section with not much luck.
Installed mut using the guide by ab cd in software section but i must admit i was a little lost configuring it .
I still have old faithful b+ running d1090 mr version feeding 4 services with no problems at all but maybe its time to move on and this is the start of my experiments.
Good news on the littleun jepolch, looking good
The quality of cheap RG6 is low: The foil easily comes out, the core wire is not so good steel, so bends easily without snapping.Thanks! That is exactly how I was doing it. Two of the radials snapped (the core wire) when I was bending them down. They actually made a snap sound when they broke, like the wire wasn't flexible!
Edit: Oh wait. I just read your instructions more carefully. I didn't do it that way. I pushed the radial straight in, then bent it 90 degrees while it was pushed in. I'm still surprised they snapped, though.
Yup! That is exactly what I was experiencing. And I was thinking - 15 minute spider!! Grumble, grumble. Next time I'll use some cheap coax I have in the box.The quality of cheap RG6 is low: The foil easily comes out, the core wire is not so good steel, so bends easily without snapping.
Believe me or not, when trying to setup my ADS-B system for the first time, I found RG6 two qualities: $0.30 per ft & $0.20 per ft. I purchased the costlier RG6 ($0.30 per ft), thinking "Costlier is Better". When I made my first tiny dipole & Franklin using that cable, I found the foil is fused to the core insulation. I had to peel off the sticking foil by a knife, as if I am peeling a potato! . Even to separate the core wire from core insulation was a headache. Next day I went to a Dollar Shop and purchased 75 ft roll of RG6 coax for $7.50 (i.e. $0.10 per ft). Since then I never purchased the $0.30 per ft cable again. "Cheaper is Better"
HOW TO GET ALTERNATING BLUE/RED CIRCLES IN DUMP1090-MUTABILITY?......Can some kind soul point me towards making more range rings for mut.....
I have not seen any consistency on this dimension, and I feel it is not very critical either. Different designs take starting point differently. The most common is the point from where the radial exits the Flange of the connector.Ok, I'm thinking about spider construction. My plan is to make a copper disk (washer) from 1/8" copper plate with the od of the washer about 2 inches. I'll solder the radials to the washer and rivet the washer to the N bulkhead connector. My question is - should the radial's length be measured from the center of the whip (center of the circle) or from where they exit the disk?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Dave! you nicked the 3000th post!
I would suggest you start smaller threads for these. It is hard to locate information in a thread like this.It was a modified gap.html from a member here. Try to search gmap on the thread.
Hoping he see this and respond.